By Joe Sebastiani, Seasonal Program Team Leader
Fifth and final post about the Delaware Nature Society trip to Cuba, November 2010.
With most of our bird surveying wrapped up, we spent the last few days of our trip to Cuba in the amazing Valle de Vinales. This is the location of yet another national park, Parque Nacional Vinales, which is also classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This spectacular area is recognized for its dramatic rocky outcrops known as magotes coupled with traditional farms and villages in the Sierra de los Organos mountains.
The area is kind of like a tropical version of the Lancaster County Amish country, except there are no strip malls, outlets, chain restaurants, etc. Farmers grow tobacco, coffee, oranges, sugarcane, and other produce under towering limestone magotes and cliffs. They plow their fields with oxen, travel by horse-powered carts, and seem to live very simple lives. Visitors come to hike, bike, and ride horseback through this traditional Cuban landscape, as well as just plain relax.

Limestone hills called magotes tower above traditional Cuban agricultural fields in the Parque Nacional Vinales. Photo by Joe Sebastiani
We spent a few days here wrapping up bird surveys and enjoying the amazing views. The main difference in habitat here was the native Caribbean Pine forest and native vegetation on the magotes. Cuban Solitaires sang from high up lending an eerie jungle-like sound to the farmland where we stood. The magotes retain virgin forest, since they are difficult to access for resource extraction. At the base of magotes, our guide, Giraldo Alayon was very busy pointing out native palms, wildflowers, and other plants that are rare and endemic to Cuba.

Giraldo Alayon, our guide on the trip, describes the natural history of the bats that live in this cave. The magotes are full of caves, and harbor many, many bat roosts. We saw thousands pour out of this cave at dusk. Photo by Joe Sebastiani
Birding in this area yielded most of the same kinds of birds we had seen earlier on the trip. There are a few notable species worth mentioning, however. The Olive-capped Warbler is a bird that lives in the pine forests of Cuba and the Bahamas. We were able to get very good looks and photographs of this species here and it was very common in pine forest.

Olive-capped Warblers were common in the Caribbean Pine forest of the Vinales area. Photo by Joe Sebastiani
On a sad note, we witnessed first-hand, the illegal wild bird trade here in Vinales. In Cuba, capturing wild birds for the pet trade is rather common, although it is illegal. It is part of the culture to keep songbirds in cages, sometimes used for “singing competitions”, much like a cock-fight. People get together with their birds to see who has the better singer, and even bet money on the outcome! I am not sure how you decide who is a better singer, but that is what happens. The birds of choice tend to be Cuban Bullfinches and Cuban Grassquits. We saw Bullfinches in cages on people’s balconies in various towns, and in Vinales we saw a Cuban Grassquit shortly after it had been caught. A Cuban Grassquit is a small finch that is mostly black and green with a yellow wash around the face. It only lives in Cuba.

A boy carries a Cuban Grassquit in a cage. Although illegal, it is still common practice in Cuba to trap wild songbirds for pets. Photo by Joe Sebastiani
As a consequence of trapping, Cuban Grassquits are very scarcely seen around towns and villages. We managed to find 3 or 4 of them in the wild, but they are greatly outnumbered by the Yellow-faced Grassquit, which is a weak singer, and therefore not sought-after as a cage bird.
Our trip to Cuba came to an end after our visit to Vinales. Cuba exceeded everyone’s expectations in many, many ways. Not only is it beautiful, but it has many huge preserved natural areas and large national parks. The people of Cuba are very friendly and welcoming, and I made many friends on the trip that I am sure I will keep in touch with for a long time. Towns and cities are very clean and people seem to respect where they live. In terms of trash, it is a much cleaner place than the United States, and certainly way cleaner than other Latin American countries I have visited. If Americans are ever allowed to go to Cuba legally, I am sure the wonderful places we visited will be flooded with us. I hope you can get there someday.
I would like to thank all of the Delaware Nature Society members that took part in the trip to Cuba. I sincerely hope you had as great a trip as I did. I would also like to thank Gary Markowski and the Caribbean Conservation Trust for making this wonderful trip possible. Also, a very special thanks is in order for Dr. Giraldo Alayon, our naturalist-guide for the trip. We really got more than just a naturalist. Dr. Alayon is well known in the Caribbean as the foremost expert on spiders of the West Indies and Central America. He has discovered, described, and named many species new to science. He has published more than 100 papers on the systematics and biogeography of spiders and insects of the region. He has also been a serious birder since 1977, and has published 15 papers related to avian biology and behavior. He is currently working on a book about the Cuban Ivory-billed Woodpecker, which he has seen in eastern Cuba during expeditions to find the species in the 1980′s and 1990′s. Dr. Alayon is a past president of the Cuban Zoological Society, and is the current Curator of Arachnida at the National Museum of Natural History in Havana and earned his PhD from the University of Havana.

Here I am with Dr. Giraldo Alayon in Vinales. He took a break from listening to Guns and Roses for this photograph taken by Ron Majors.
Since our visit to Cuba was officially classified as a Humanitarian Environmental visit to assist with long-term ornithological bird surveys, I will provide the entire list of species we found. The list follows the latest Clements World Checklist:
- Wood Duck
- Blue-winged Teal
- Helmeted Guineafowl
- Least Grebe
- Pied-billed Grebe
- American Flamingo
- Brown Pelican
- Neotropic Cormorant
- Double-crested Cormorant
- Anhinga
- Magnificent Frigatebird
- Great Blue Heron
- Great Egret
- Snowy Egret
- Little Blue Heron
- Tricolored Heron
- Reddish Egret
- Cattle Egret
- Green Heron
- White Ibis
- Roseate Spoonbill
- Wood Stork
- Turkey Vulture
- Osprey
- Snail Kite
- Northern Harrier
- Cuban Black-hawk
- Red-tailed Hawk
- Crested Caracara
- American Kestrel
- Merlin
- Peregrine Falcon
- Clapper Rail
- Sora
- Purple Gallinule
- Common Moorhen
- American Coot
- Limpkin
- Black-bellied Plover
- Killdeer
- Black-necked Stilt
- Spotted Sandpiper
- Solitary Sandpiper
- Greater Yellowlegs
- Least Sandpiper
- Wilson’s Snipe
- Laughing Gull
- Caspian Tern
- Forster’s Tern
- Royal Tern
- Rock Pigeon
- Scaly-naped Pigeon
- White-crowned Pigeon
- Eurasian Collared-dove
- White-winged Dove
- Zenaida Dove
- Mourning Dove
- Common Ground-dove
- Blue-headed Quail-dove
- Cuban Parrot
- Yellow-billed Cuckoo
- Great Lizard-cuckoo
- Smooth-billed Ani
- Bare-legged Owl
- Cuban Pygmy-owl
- Stygian Owl
- Greater Antillean Nightjar (aka: Cuban Nightjar)
- Antillean Palm-swift
- Cuban Emerald
- Bee Hummingbird
- Cuban Trogon
- Cuban Tody
- Belted Kingfisher
- West Indian Woodpecker
- Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
- Cuban Green Woodpecker
- Northern Flicker
- Fernandina’s Flicker
- Cuban Pewee
- Eastern Phoebe
- La Sagra’s Flycatcher
- Loggerhead Kingbird
- Giant Kingbird
- White-eyed Vireo
- Cuban Vireo
- Yellow-throated Vireo
- Cuban Crow
- Tree Swallow
- Barn Swallow
- Zapata Wren
- Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
- Ruby-crowned Kinglet
- Cuban Solitaire
- Red-legged Thrush
- Gray Catbird
- Northern Mockingbird
- Tennessee Warbler
- Northern Parula
- Yellow Warbler
- Magnolia Warbler
- Cape May Warbler
- Black-throated Blue Warbler
- Yellow-rumped Warbler
- Black-throated Green Warbler
- Yellow-throated Warbler
- Olive-capped Warbler
- Prairie Warbler
- Palm Warbler
- Black-and-white Warbler
- American Redstart
- Worm-eating Warbler
- Ovenbird
- Northern Waterthrush
- Louisiana Waterthrush
- Common Yellowthroat
- Yellow-headed Warbler
- Hooded Warbler
- Western Spindalis
- Red-legged Honeycreeper
- Cuban Bullfinch
- Cuban Grassquit
- Yellow-faced Grassquit
- Lincoln’s Sparrow
- Summer Tanager
- Indigo Bunting
- Tawny-shouldered Blackbird
- Eastern Meadowlark
- Cuban Blackbird
- Greater Antillean Grackle
- Greater Antillean Oriole (aka: Cuban Oriole)
- House Sparrow
- Nutmeg Mannikin
- Tricolored Munia
Share this post with your friends!